WeeklySA_AdminPEPPERY: The grape’s exuberant character makes it compatible with equally robust dishes…
By Len Maseko
A breezy drive of approximately an hour-and-a-half hours northwards from Cape Town to the remote town of Tulbagh can be the most rewarding and soul-edifying – that is, if one is an incurable Shiraz romantic and drools over a glass of delectable wine made from the grape.
Of course, nearby Cape winelands routes might just tend to your hankering, since they already offer a myriad choices of exquisite Shiraz wines within a short distance. Yet, a drive out of the concrete jungle to the countryside, navigating the long-winded roads in search of a vinous adventure, might just provide a perfect remedy for a parched soul needing a tranquil, breath-taking drive. Well, for some, it may well be worth the scenic trip just for a different wine experience that expands one’s tasting horizons. Mores so, especially, when the destination beckoning yonder is the magnificent Saronsberg winery, the famous landmark in Tulbagh that is part of the local wine route and which attracts a steady drove of tourists to this far-flung town all year round.
The town was named after the colonial Cape governor, Ryk Tulbagh, and boasts some Cape Dutch and Victorian architecture. On September 1969, Tulbagh experienced what was described as the most destructive earthquake in South African history. The occurrence was felt as far as Durban, about 1175km away from Tulbagh.
Notably, Saronsberg’s name is indivisible from Shiraz – as is its association with the grape’s sister varietals that trace their origins in Southern France and the Rhône, such as Grenache and Mourvrede. Thus, this Tulbagh winery is famous as much for its blends like its Shiraz-blend like Full Circle as it is largely for its award-winning Shiraz wines.
So, it came as no great wonder recently that, once again, the winery produced one of the Top 12 Shiraz winners at the 9th annual Shiraz Challenge in Paarl a fortnight ago. The awards were hosted by the cultivar association, Shiraz SA, which singles out what are renowned as the best Shiraz wines every year. And if, as they say, a team is as good as its last game, Saronsberg cellarmaster Dewaldt Heyns lapped up a proud moment when his Saronsberg Shiraz 2019 was named among the Top 12 Shiraz champions of 2021.
The affable Heyns, who has been a head winemaker at Saronsberg since 2003, has garnered many accolades for his fine wines in the past two decades.
Thanks for his passion and meticulous hand that directs every aspect of the winemaking process at the cellar and vineyards– from handpicking, sorting of the berries, a gravity-fed fermentation cellar. His beady eye has ensured theresounding success for the winery and his team, which includes owner Nick van der Huyssteen and marketing manager Mandy Dewing.
In 2008, Dewaldt joined the prestigious Cape Winemakers Guild, which consists of the crème de la crème of South Africa’s winemakers and hosts an annual auction of exclusive young fine wines from crafted by its select members.
So coveted are the winery’s Shiraz wines that Saronsberg Die Erf Shiraz 2017 fetched a maximum price of just over R8 000 a case of six bottles at the guild’s auction last year – about R1 400 a bottle. In the Shiraz category, Saronsberg was eclipsed only by the Cederberg Teen Die Hoog Shiraz 2018 which was bought for an average case price of R12 190 at the auction.
Speaking at the 9th annual Shiraz Challenge, judges panel convenor Dr Andy Roediger remarked: “The quality of Shiraz wines keeps increasing and this makes it exceedingly difficult to select the winning wines as there are so many excellent wines at the top level.
“A tendency that has emerged during this year’s judging, is that the wines tend to be more fruit driven, making the differentiation compared to old world wines and other countries more distinctive.
Often aromatics come to the forefront rather than the herbaceous character of the old world, yet maintaining a full-bodied mouthfeel. Spiciness is evident and perhaps to my mind the pepper notes were not as evident as years gone by.
Lower alcohol levels are also apparent so, in summary the Shiraz wines are of earlier drinking styles than in years gone by,” Roediger added.
THE 12 BEST 2021 BEST SHIRAZ WINES
• Cederberg Shiraz 2018
• Driehoek Syrah 2019
• Koelfontein Shiraz 2019
• Landskroon Paul de Villiers Shiraz 2019
• Flagstone Dark Horse Shiraz 2017
• Neil Ellis Groenekloof Syrah 2019
• Glen Carlou Syrah 2019
• Rooiberg Winery Shiraz Reserve 2019
• Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2017
• Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Shiraz 2018
• Saronsberg Shiraz 2019
• Stellenbosch Vineyards Credo Shiraz 2018
PAIRING SHIRAZ WITH FOOD
Shiraz is described as having a unique exuberant character and therefore one would naturally pair it with equally boisterous types of food. One of South Africa’s gastronomic gurus, Katinka van Niekerk, advises that food that can be paired with Shiraz broadly falls into four quadrants
Food with strong, powerful flavours
Hearty stews, casseroles and South Africa’s very own “potjies” fall into this category. Slow-cooked dishes, usually made with less tender cuts of meat, are full-flavoured and work extremely well with Shiraz. Herb-roasted and spiced meats and vegetables are also good matches for this variety.
All forms of game
From venison pie to kudu or ostrich steak, roast duck, rabbit or springbok, Shiraz with its inherent gaminess, is an excellent partner.
Grilled, braaied or barbequed food as well as charcuterie
One of Shiraz’s well-known characteristics is its smokiness. Foods prepared in this way are paired with Shiraz with huge success.
Sweet sauces, jellies and relishes
These sauces, often sweet and made from full-ripe berries or other fruit that traditionally accompany dishes such as roasted meats, simply call for Shiraz.
CHEESE
The principle of teaming up the strong flavours of Shiraz with the equally strong flavours of a cheese may not necessarily turn out to be a match made in heaven! However, there are some cheeses that go very well with Shiraz, for example, certain hard cow’s milk cheeses, blue cheese, aged Cheddar, Gruyere, Manchego and slightly aged goat’s cheese. But, mindful that these are just general guidelines and personal preference will eventually determine one’s choice.
SOURCE: SHIRAZ SA
