WeeklySA_AdminBREEZY: Gqeberha is a beautiful, tidy city with a relaxed rhythm with uncrowded beaches, as lifestyle writer Priscilla Malinga discovered during her recent visit…
By Priscilla Malinga
Gqeberha, formerly known as Port Elizabeth, is truly a breath of fresh air. We decided to visit this November—just before the festive crowds—to see what the city has to offer.
My photographer and I initially travelled to help her sister pack up for a move back to Johannesburg after finishing her studies. Booking a flight with FlySafair was so quick and simple that even my six-year-old nephew could have done it. I almost missed the flight, but the angels were clearly on duty; bad weather delayed the plane just long enough for me to make it.
Landing at Chief Dawid Stuurman International Airport, I was not prepared for the long line of travellers waiting for e-hailing rides. The wind was sharp and the cold unexpected, and I longed to get to my accommodation quickly. Drivers kept cancelling my trip until I switched to the inDrive app—which proved fast, reliable, and efficient.
Our apartment in Summerstrand was a lovely surprise. It featured two bedrooms, a lounge, a fully fitted kitchen with appliances, and a sleeper couch. Located on Marine Drive directly opposite the beach, it offered beautiful views and easy access to the shoreline. Self-catering was especially convenient for travellers on a budget—we could cook, save money, and still enjoy comfort.
One of the most impressive things about Gqeberha is its calm, breezy lifestyle. Residents wake up early, jogging along the beachfront in numbers, soaking in the sea air and the serenity of the city. Waking up to the sound of waves, strolling along the sand, and picking up rocks for no reason at all felt like a luxury—especially for us Joburgers. Pity we didn’t have a spare 2-litre bottle to take some seawater home, because we truly didn’t want to leave the beach behind.
For lunch on our first day, we spotted countless restaurants but ended up choosing Mike’s Kitchen—not because we didn’t want to explore, but because we didn’t want surprises. The building and surroundings were stunning, and the starter of creamy, spicy livers with oven-fresh garlic bread was divine. Unfortunately, the main meals didn’t live up to the promise. One dish was average, and my oxtail was drowning in tomatoes. I complained—politely but firmly—because it wasn’t cheap. The manager refunded me, insisting it was a local favourite, but I wasn’t convinced.
On our second day, we visited The Royal Thai Gardens Thai Massage and Spa in Walmer, just a few kilometres from the airport. The moment we stepped inside, we were wrapped in a world of Thai décor and statues. The treatments were exceptional, and the staff offered quick, efficient service. For a moment, it truly felt like we were in Thailand.
The last day was my favourite. With a later flight booked and check-out at 10am, I took a slow walk along the beach. I met and chatted with a local woman before wandering off to explore the gardens. Feeling a bit lost, I decided to find something to eat near the busy part of the beach. I walked into a building with a beautiful verandah—only to discover it was part of the Beach Hotel. Their restaurant, The Verandah, served what felt like the best breakfast I’d had in a long time. Maybe I was hungry, or maybe it was just that good. For only R99, I enjoyed a delicious meal and a free cappuccino.
The Beach Hotel offers around 58 rooms tailored for different needs. Its blue-and-white décor creates a soft, inviting feel, while the spacious bathrooms with baths and showers bring a touch of luxury. The hotel is over 100 years old, but it still stands tall and proudly holds its own among modern establishments. Best of all, its location gives guests immediate access to the festive beachfront strip, with some rooms opening directly onto the pool area.
Checking out of self-catering imprints on the beach, however, was interesting—they ask guests to leave the place clean. What a joke after a full holiday! Still, Gqeberha more than made up for it. It is a beautiful, tidy city with a relaxed rhythm and locals who appear to enjoy a genuinely high quality of life. Not once did we feel unsafe or at risk of being robbed.
Overall, the experience was refreshing, calming, and full of surprises. Gqeberha is definitely a destination worth visiting this summer. Just be warned—if you’re planning a December trip, be ready for the crowds. It might just feel like Durban Beach.
