WeeklySA_AdminEXCELLENCE: Spier cellarmaster Johan Jordaan reflects on back-to-back recognition, the global rise of South African Chenin Blanc, and why the vineyard — not the cellar — remains the true hero…
By Len Maseko
Johan Jordaan, Spier’s cellarmaster named this week the Master Chenin Blanc Winemaker for the second consecutive year at the prestigious Master Winemaker 100 held in France, has hardly paused for the global acclaim to sink.
Thanks to the vagaries of winemaking that currently have him running helter-skelter at the Stellenbosch wine farm, commandeering the harvest with the hawkish eye of an army general, rather than delving in the luxury of celebrating his remarkable feat. A milestone that positions Spier as one of the world’s leading producers of Chenin Blanc and confirms South Africa’s continued excellence in the varietal.
This extraordinary achievement follows on the outstanding performances by two Spier Chenin Blanc wines in the 2025 Global Wine Masters competition. The Spier 21 Gables Chenin Blanc 2023 received competition’s highest honour, the Grand Master award, while the Spier Seaward Chenin Blanc 2024 earned a Master Award, one of only three wines to achieve this distinction.
Reacting to the news, a delighted Johan said the recognition reflects Spier’s long-term commitment to intentional winemaking.
Yet, the accolade comes as the Cape winelands farms knuckle down to the annual harvest. Inside the cellars at Spier Wine Farm, situation is no different as the air is punctuated by more than fermenting juice — but momentum.
For winemaker Jordaan, the consecutive recognition for Spier’s Chenin Blanc is simply not an accolade to be framed. But a confirmation of a philosophy: excellence begins in the soil.
At a time when global wine markets are increasingly selective, and when South Africa continues to define its varietal identity, Chenin Blanc is no longer an underdog. It is emerging as the country’s calling card — and Spier is helping write that story.
Q: Congratulations, Johan. What makes this award particularly special for Spier?
Johan Jordaan: It’s a tremendous privilege to be acknowledged for crafting a wine that is regarded globally as best in class. To achieve this twice in succession makes it even more meaningful. For me, it’s not just about the award itself — it’s a testimony to what we stand for at Spier.
We place enormous emphasis on quality winemaking from the vine all the way to the glass. Together with our team of winemakers and viticulturists, our goal is simple: ensure the grape sings. That means planting in the right areas, understanding the soil, nurturing the vines, and guiding the wine carefully in the cellar. Recognition like this validates that philosophy.
Q: Does it create pressure winning it two years in succession?
Jordaan: Not pressure — responsibility.
It encourages us to stay focused. Every vintage is a new challenge. If we keep improving the fundamentals — vineyard care, picking decisions, team collaboration — the results will follow naturally.
Q: What message does it mean for local Chenin Blanc — and specifically Spier’s approach?
Jordaan: For years, the international wine community asked South Africa to champion one varietal. Chenin Blanc was always suggested.
I think we’ve listened. Today, when buyers look at South Africa, Chenin is often one of the first requests. That shift tells you everything.
Q: Is SA Chenin Blanc getting enough international credit?
Jordaan: It’s gaining real momentum.
If you taste a blind selection today, seven or eight out of ten South African Chenins are excellent. That consistency across producers strengthens the category and builds trust internationally.
Q: What makes Spier Chenin Blanc distinct?
Jordaan: Understanding that without great vines, you can’t make great wine.
The relationship with growers is crucial. Once that penny drops — that the vineyard is everything — quality follows.
Chenin itself is incredibly versatile. It can be fresh and light, textured and age-worthy. In many ways, it mirrors South Africans — resilient, adaptable, expressive.
Q: Which Chenin Blanc wines have served as benchmarks for you?
Jordaan: There are many great examples locally. Producers like Ken Forrester, Chris Alheit, Sardi and others have set high standards.
The encouraging thing is that excellence is no longer isolated — it’s widespread. That collective rise strengthens the reputation of the varietal.
Q: What triggered your passion for Chenin Blanc?
Jordaan: I grew up on a farm where Chenin Blanc was always present. Even as a grape berry, it had a taste that reminded me of summer.
When I first started tasting wine, Chenin always seemed to offer more than just “wine” — it expressed fruit, warmth, layers. That versatility and character captured my interest early on.
Q: Which vintage stands out as defining in your journey?
Jordaan: The 2016 vintage remains a hallmark for me — elegant, refined.
If you taste a 21 Gables Chenin Blanc from 2016, especially in magnum, you’ll see how beautifully it can age. When a premium white wine can evolve for ten years and beyond, it shows that vineyard selection, soil understanding and teamwork were aligned correctly.
Q: What is your sense of this year’s vintage?
Jordaan: We are just over 50% through harvest in Stellenbosch, Paarl and Durbanville. It’s been a dry season, with small berries and concentrated bunches.
Acidity is high and fresh, and flavours developed at lower sugar levels — which made picking decisions fascinating this year. We staggered picking to capture different layers of flavour. If we had harvested everything at once, we wouldn’t have maximised quality.
It’s shaping up to be a very promising vintage — balanced, concentrated and expressive.
Q: Any surprise in the offing for Chenin Blanc romantics?
Jordaan: We keep our heads down and focus. The surprise lies in attention to detail — nurturing the grape so it expresses both origin and fruit quality.
We aim for wines that hold the drinker’s interest — expressive, layered, honest.
Q: How do we get Gen Z to love Chenin Blanc?
Jordaan: Chenin has a flavour profile that naturally appeals. It offers tropical fruit character and a perception of sweetness — not from sugar, but from ripe fruit expression.
It feels modern, approachable and layered. Ultimately, people drink what they enjoy. Chenin offers that broad appeal.
